Finding your love


South swell, north wind. Perfect conditions on the water this morning. After our session Jim and I sat on the wall and watched the new arrivals as they got ready for their session. Most of the surfers were men, but there were a few ladies donning their wetsuits and waxing their boards. It got me thinking about how they got into the sport.


Many women start surfing either because their family surfs or they date a surfer. And if you date a surfer you can either accept the surf culture and lifestyle and watch from the shore or learn to surf yourself. Usually once you pick up the habit of surfing, even if the relationship ends it tends to start a love affair with the ocean.


It got me thinking about how I got into surfing.


Yes it was because of a guy I “dated” (I use the term rather loosely here). But before we started to hang out I knew I wanted to surf. I needed someone to show me the ropes and bring me into the fold. This young man wasn’t a great surf teacher but he did show me surf spots, got me hooked up with a wetsuit (which I had until last summer when it got stolen from the front yard), and helped me purchase my first board.


While the relationship with the young man was going no where, it did start my love affair with the ocean, one that continues to day and I anticipate will last many years into the future.


In the end it probably doesn’t matter how you get introduced to something you love, the important thing is you find the thing you love and keep doing it.



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