Of all the sports I’ve done surfing is by far the toughest. It took years of going out in the water and getting pounded before I began to feel like an actual surfer and not just a kook in the line up. But that’s with a long board.
About a year ago I picked up a short board (well it’s short to me). And learning to ride a short board is like learning to surf all over again. When I go out it looks like a comedy of errors. I resemble a physical comedian like Rowan Atkinson. There are things like doing splits while catching a wave and riding on my knees before falling over. I am sure that if you were watching from shore it would be a good laugh.
I guess I have a ways to go until I look like an actual surfer on a short board. I guess until then I’ll just be a kook, but I’m okay with that.