Get back on that wave


When you get knocked in the face the best thing to do is stand up and get right out there.


The other day I got smacked in the face with my board. Not only was it a physical wound it was mental also. I knew that if I waited too long to get back out in the water I would have a big battle on my hands.


So the next swell, which was a few days after the knock to my noggin, I paddled out again.


Just as I suspected I had a mental battle. I nearly turned around before getting past the break because I was afraid I would lose control of my board and get hit in the head again. I ignored those thoughts and kept pushing past the waves. Once I got to the line up I found I was afraid to paddle for waves. Set after set of great waves came right to me because I was sitting in the peak but I just let them pass because I was terrified that I might get hurt again.


In the end I ended up getting two nice rides. That was enough to get me back on the horse and to overcome some of my mental hurdles.


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